Express Yourself

The late Isabella Blow photographed by Bill Cunningham New York Times

In 2001, Richard Press, an independent film maker-cum-freelance art director for the New York Times began capturing film footage of photojournalist Bill Cunningham. The humble and highly acclaimed Cunningham was uninterested in being the subject, preferring the opposite side of the camera, which had been his life passion for more than four decades. Finally in 2008, after years of perseverance, Richard Press and his partner, producer Philip Geftner got the reluctant Cunningham to agree, and last week premiered Bill Cunningham New York at the Film Forum in New York. Yesterday it was screened at the Museum of Modern Art in New York and at The Los Angeles County Museum, through the Costume Council. I attended the Costume Council’s viewing and can say this is a genuinely moving film about, not just the original street photographer, but a true Original.

Bill Cunningham New York Times

In addition to the fascinating commentary by friends and subjects such as Anna Wintour and Iris Apfel, the film captivates us with how a passion can engulf an entire life and become that individual's personification. Most known for his images in The New York Times Sunday Style column “On The Street,” Cunningham is a virtual encyclopedia of fashion, who finds moments of sartorial significance like needles in a haystack. To see pure dedication drive and define a person, as does Cunningham’s “search for beauty,” is truly awe-inspiring.

Looking back at some of the goings on I have attended over the course of a few weeks such as Rodarte: States of Matter at MOCA, and a party at LFrank for Kate Betts and her book Everyday Icon: Michelle Obama and the Power of Style, the common theme seems to be the celebration of fashion as a powerful form of communication. Bill Cunningham New York drives home the idea that style is personal and fashion a means to express and arm oneself for the world in which we live.  So, I take away the important message that when picking and choosing from seasonal trends, take advantage of these tools that designers offer us in expressing ourselves. For the most striking visions, which seem to talk to us, are always those that tell us something about the individual. And, in the end we are all looking for a little connection.

Paris Fall 2011 Fashion Week

     Left: Lanvin, Center: Chanel (both Yannis Vlamos - Gorunway.com) Right: Celine - photo Monica Feudi - Feudiguaineri.com

Women will be no pushovers next Fall…  The Parisian message was strong, powerful and often  with an undercurrent of warrior or renegade spirit , punctuated by capes and maxi coats. 

       Left: Louis Vuitton, Center Miu Miu (both Monica Feudi - Feudiguaineri.com) Right:YSL - photo Marcus Tondo - Gorunway.com




Although there was still some 70s spirit, it read more power than party, bringing to mind Faye Dunaway in Network. YSL’s 70s via 40s vision exemplified the importance of the 40s influence which had been developing over the preceding weeks. The silhouette of broad shouldered jackets, pinched waists and pencil skirts hitting just at or below the knee provided for a strong but sexy image.  

   Left and Center Balenciaga - photo Monica Feudi - Feudiguaineri.com. Right Stella McCartney - photo Marcus Tondo - Gorunway.com   

The oversize jacket, which we had seen in Milan at Dolce & Gabbana was popular again, evolving in Paris to an almost exaggerated state with oversized rounded shoulders. The palette was generally darker, with black and white both getting a lot of play. 

Louis Vuitton - Photo Monica Feudi -  Feudiguaineri.com

Givenchy - Photo Yannis Vlamos - Gorunway.com

Lace, leather, fur and experiments with plastic continued to intrigue designers, as did the use of sheer. Paris took that sheer factor to  another level with Givenchy, Louis Vuitton and Stella McCartney all showing see through skirts. 

                                                                          Alexander McQueen - Photo Yannis Vlamos - Gorunway.com

                                                  

Get ready to dress to kill!

Fall 2011: London & Milan Runway Report

Roksanda Ilincic- GoRunway.com  - Marcus Tondo

Gucci - Feudiguaineri.com - Monica Feudi

 As in New York, the London and Milan runways continued to be filled with color and graphic prints. Cobalt and red were joined by acid green and teal as the hot colors of the season. The runways were color saturated, down to the furs (a trend which started last fall in New York and became a must have for spring thanks to Prada's hot hued scarves.)

Richard Nicoll - GoRunway.com - Yannis Vlamos

Pucci - Feudiguaineri.com - Monica Feudi

 

The uneven hemlines seen in New York were still prevalent, along with some other slashing and cutting, namely of the decollete and thigh high type. The most glorious versions of the full length slit were at Roksanda Ilincic, in London and Gucci, in Milan.

Roksanda Ilincic - GoRunway.com - Marcus Tondo

Gucci - Feudiguaineri.com - Monica Feudi

Although midi and maxi lengths have dominated so far this season, with Victorian, 30s, 70s and even 90s references continuing to be seen, shorter lengths with an early 60s feel  appeared on several runways. Above the knee shift dresses, with a mod feel, as well as dropped waists and shoulders were seen at Burberry and Richard Nicoll in London, with the trend receiving a powerful endorsement by Prada in Milan.

Burberry - GoRunway.com - Yannis Vlamos

Prada - Feudiguaineri.com - Monica Feudi

 

The roles of masculinity and femininity seemed to be on designers’ minds, with ultra fem versions of menswear at Ferragamo and   an 80’s tomboy charm at Dolce and Gabbana.

Ferragamo - GoRunway.com - Yannis Vlamos

The luxe fabrics of choice this season, from chiffon, to lace, satin and most recently python, combined with eye popping color has given us plenty of eye candy to lust after for next fall.

Missoni - GoRunway.com - Yannis Vlamos