NY Fashion Week Fall 2011 Trend Report

Rodarte. Photo Monica Feudi Feudiguaneri.com

Wrapping Friday as the first of the four major Fall 2011 Fashion Weeks, New York offered a silhouette which was fluid and poetic, favoring midi or maxi lengths. It seemed there was a bit of nostalgia for the 90s with maxi lengths, slip dresses and an ode to grunge. Meanwhile there was still an air of the 70s spirit, though not as strong as that of the Spring shows.

Alexander Wang. Photo Yannis Vlamos. GoRunway.com

Uneven hemlines, usually shorter in the front and longer in the back, were rampant, showing up at Alexander Wang, Altuzarra and The Row. And, last year’s requisite fur was replaced by the parka as outerwear of choice, with second runner up going to the poncho.

Alexander Wang. Photo Yannis Vlamos. GoRunway.com

 

 

 

Altuzarra.  Photo Marcus Tondo. GoRunway.com

Carrying over from Spring, colors remained divided between two camps: brights and pales. On the bright side, red and cobalt, together or not, dominated. Blush, ivory and gray made up the pale palette.

                                                                          

Thakoon. Photo Alessandro Garofolo GoRunway.com

                                                                                                

Rag & Bone. Photo Monica Feudi. Feudiguaneri.com

Sophie Theallet . Photo Marcus Tondo GoRunway.com

                                                                                                                             

Derek Lam. Photo Alessandro Viero GoRunway.com

Alexander Wang. Photo Yannis Vlamos. GoRunway.com

Altuzarra. Photo Marcus Tondo. GoRunway.com

                              

Loose shapes, which stood away from the body, were seen at Suno, Derek Lam and Phillip Lim, while the two hottest textures were lace and satin.

Phillip Lim                                                                                                                     The Row 
Photo Marcus Tondo. GoRunway.com

Prints played an important role, whether graphic, plaid, or floral patterns; or per Marc Jacobs, dots!

                                                                                                       

Edun. Photo Filippo Fior. GoRunway.com

Proenza Schouler. Photo Monica Feudi. Feudiguaneri.com

Marc Jacobs. Photo Monica Feudi. Feudiguaneri.com

Duro Olowu. Photo Alessandro Garofolo GoRunway.com

                                               


In contrast, to the widespread ease, a more structured silhouette, with Victorian and 40s details, such as bustling, peplums, and buttoned up necklines, made appearances at Marchesa, Prabal Gurung, Thakoon, and Marc Jacobs.


 

Marchesa. photo Amanda de Simone 
Gorunway.com

Marc Jacobs.  photo Monica Feudi. 
Feudiguaneri.com

So, whether you throw on an effortless graphic midi dress, a silk slip dress topped with a parka, or a maxi skirt and sweater, next Fall appears to offer many choices. Now, all eyes will be on London, Paris and Milan to see what trends evolve from here!

 

 

Red Hot

Gwyneth Paltrow in Gucci, 1996 

Altuzarra Fall 2010

Tory Burch Fall 2011

Sorry I’ve been away so long, but I have been putting together a full trend report on New York Fashion Week for you, which I will post next week. In the meantime, I was amused to see the evolution of the red velvet suit. The Gucci original was brought to fame by Gwyneth Paltrow at the MTV VMAs in 1996, and has now been paid homage to by Tory Burch. Fashion is absolutely cyclical, and vintage inspiration has sent us on warp speed time travel this past year with stops in every decade from the 30s to the 80s. And now, what can be considered vintage is getting closer and closer in time proximity, with the 90s being referenced by many designers this week! It’s always helpful to have a heads up on what you’ll be wearing seven months from now. Not only does it offer an opportunity to envision your wardrobe for the next year, so next month you can store a nice core group of your current Winter items which will still have relevance next Fall, but also to scavenge the remaining sale merchandise for pieces that work into next Fall!! Having said that, dig out your old Gucci suit, along with anything red, which will be one of the hot colors. Check back next week for a full rundown on what you’ll want to be wearing next Fall!

btw, speaking of red, for any of you divas who have not found your Oscar dress for next week, this minimal beauty shown by Sophie Theallet  this week could be ravishing!

Pack A Punch!

Hailee Steinfeld in Prada at the 2011 SAG Awards

The levity and charm radiating from Hailee Steinfeld at the SAG Awards here in Los Angeles this week has solidified the importance of color and stripes for Spring. With a plethora of trends to choose from this coming season, this is one that must be incorporated into everyone’s wardrobe. Granted, the look Hailee so perfectly wore is not for everyone. However, there are ways to touch on this trend with just enough power to bring a smile to the beholder’s face. 

 

 Solange Azagury-Partridge
(Worn on Hailee's brightly tipped fingers)

Jil Sander by Raf Simons Spring 2011

Clearly, horizontal stripes should be approached with caution, and never worn too tight. However, if the cut is flowing, such as in the Jil Sander’s billowing tank dress, it will be more forgiving. When doing stripes, bolder is better – wider is where it’s at!

 

Jil Sander by Raf Simons Spring 2011

Jil Sander’s Raf Simons made the case with bold beautiful colors in minimal shapes. This is my favorite collection as far as the New Brights go. As I started browsing around for the early landings of Spring, I saw that the pink side slit maxi skirt is already sold out on Net a Porter (even whilst much of the Country is blanketed in snow and still battling economic debate.) Now that says something for the power of color!!

Saturated color is back with a force that hasn’t been seen since the late 80’s. Even that combo of orange and magenta/fuschia/purple is back! This time around, the look is a little more sophisticated, harkening back to the vibrancy of YSL rather than the day glo fluoros of Fiorucci.

Gucci Spring 2011

Marc Jacobs Spring 2011

 

Prada Spring 2011

Small touches make this look modern, two of them being an equally bold fuschia or tangerine lip and fresh shades, a la Fendi.

+J Uniqlo (by Jil Sander)

Fendi Spring 2011

If you are not ready to shout out loud, start small… a great eye popping bag or bikini. Chances are, like a chocolate  truffle, it might just make you so happy you’ll want a little more!

Lanvin Bandeau

Jil Sander Market Bag